Phra Athit is an up-and-coming area of Bangkok for Thais and tourists alike. In that it is unalike the nearby Khaosan area of Banglamphu, still, essentially, a backpacker enclave.
Santi Chai Prakan Park
The focal point of the Phra Athit area is the complex of Santi Chai Prakan Park and Phra Sumen Fort. The location is beside the Chaophraya River by Rama VIII Suspension Bridge.
The park was completed in 1999. The site had been the factory and godowns of Sri Maharacha Co Ltd, a sugar processing company.
Santi Chai Prakan Park covers 3.2 acres, mostly laid to lawn and gardens. There is a pavilion in traditional Thai style and a large hard area right beside the Chaophraya River.
The hard area is very important for organised activity, notably huge open-access keep fit sessions around 6pm. Just pitch up and join in. You will be very welcome. In fact, Thais being Thais, great pleasure is taken in trying to get tourists involved.
Elsewhere, you will see locals and tourists just sitting and lying in the sun. The grassed areas seem to be a place for jugglers to quietly practice their arts, though, again, insatiable Thai curiosity and friendliness, sees a lot of teaching of bystanders going on.
Phra Sumen Fort
Phra Sumen Fort stands next to Santi Chai Prakan Park. It is one of two remaining of fourteen forts that lined the Chaophraya, guarding the ancient city.
The fort, built in 1783, during the reign of King Rama I, now stands, complete with cannon, beautifully restored. Its view today is of those alternately gently dozing, or wildly exercising, in the park, but never marauders.
Phra Athit Riverside Walk
Behind the buildings of Phra Athit Road is a Chaophraya riverside walk. Don’t over-romanticise this. The walkway is narrow, without seating, and the Chaophraya is never a particularly attractive river.
However, the walk does allow back access to a number of restaurants that take full advantage of their riverside location. Aquatini is particularly attractive in terms of its location, its beautiful riverside terrace and the quality of its catering.
Aquatini is part of the Navalai River Resort. Again, the resort takes full advantage of its location, with balconied accommodation looking out over the Chaophraya River.
Phra Athit Bars and Restaurants
Generally, Phra Athit Road is known for its bars and restaurants. These often offer Europeanised menus, but geared mainly to “yuppie” Thais.
You will find tourists eating and drinking here. However, price points are not attractive to most backpackers of nearby Khaosan.
Some names to look out for are Beach Bar, Ann’s Sweet, Popular Society and Mister Pas, which are blocked together opposite Sumen Fort. Another obvious block is represented by Ar-tist, ap-ple and Sync. Saffron Bakery is mentioned in awed tones by local Thais.
Phra Athit Shops and Shopping
There are some, mostly traditional, shops along Phra Athit itself. Likely of more interest to tourists is a side soi, Soi Chana Songkhram.
Here you will find the odd travel agent and several cheaper restaurants, but, more particularly, various interesting curio and ephemera shops.
The Trapeze Swingers is a fascinating retro shop in the Japanese style, its focus on the fashion, music and ephemera of the 1960s and 70s. Particularly if you’re into hippy, bohemian fashions, this is the place for you. That said, more modern styles are also made-up, using period fabrics.
Gecko House is the place to buy Buddhas, and to do so cheaply. They have hundreds, particularly those cast plastic ones that are utterly compulsive in their awfulness. You won’t come away empty-handed.
