Agritourism in Thailand’s Loei Province.

Loei is one of the most far-flung of Thailand’s Provinces, up on the Lao border. In translation, Loei means “surpass”, “go beyond”, “exceed”.

Geographically, Loei Province is wedged between Isaan in the North East (of which it is, technically, a part) and Thailand’s North. This produces an interesting cultural blend of Isaan and Lanna cultures, showing in all manner of ways, from how people look, through the local dialects to the mix that is eaten.

It is a land of extremes of temperature, from very hot in summer to, sometimes, below zero in winter. It is characterised by craggy mountains, lasting mists, sometimes fog. Rainfall can be very high. Of course, to talk in broad terms fails to understand the specific microclimates. These vary in mountain areas, the plains and the lowland basins of the Khong and Loei Rivers.

This topography accounts for very varied agricultural production. The range is from highland, warm-temperature, crops, such as macadamia and arabica coffee, through to tropical crops, such as rubber. As you drive through the area, though, with constant beautiful roadside nurseries, the overwhelming impression is of cold-climate plant and flower production.

Loei Town

You will almost certainly bed down in Loei Town. There are several respectable hotels, even the best at relatively low price points.

Loei Town is the main town of an extensive agricultural hinterland. Accordingly, it’s the place to stock up on agricultural implements and machinery. It is also the place to stock the larder from the supermarket, where almost everything is sold in bulk.

For fresh food or “ready meals” prowl the extensive street markets. There are also, less approachable, covered food markets. All are wildly characterful, waiting for tourists’ cameras, in the future.

There is also a more general market, where any foodstuffs are ready meals or dried goods. This is near the Loei Palace Hotel, on the outskirts of town.

A workaday town, Loei transforms itself by night, though the nightlife barely makes it beyond early evening. That nightlife, though, is very attractive.

On the outskirts of town, near the Loei River, is Chaloem Phra Kiat Park, with its huge freshwater lake. The sights, namely Lak Mueang Shrine and Chao Pho Kut Pong Shrine, are lit by night, and there are attractive lakeside restaurants and bars. Light House, with its live music, particularly catches the eye and ear.

Near the lake, through to Thanon Chumsai, is a wonderful night food market. In a country where hawker stalls are not just the cheap way to eat, but often also the fresh and cleanly way to eat, this market takes quality to another level.